Introductory Study Day (Tuesday 22nd September)
For those who are able to come, there will be an introductory late morning visit to the National Gallery the week before the tour departs, giving us an opportunity to meet other members of the group and explore works by Venetian artists in the National Gallery collection. We will examine paintings by Titian, Bellini, Tintoretto, Longhi and Rosalba Carriera as well as views of the city by Canaletto and Guardi. The tour will last approximately 1½ hours.
Day 1 (Tuesday 29th September)
We depart this morning from London Gatwick and fly to Venice Marco Polo. We then travel by private water taxi to our hotel – the best way to approach the city. Rooms are reserved in the luxury 5-star Ca' Sagredo, a stunning 15th century palazzo on the Grand Canal of outstanding historic importance. The hotel opened just 10 years ago but has already won countless awards: there are just over 40 rooms which give it the intimacy of a boutique hotel, and yet its grand public spaces including the magnificent frescoed halls and monumental marble staircases transport one back in time to the grandeur and hedonism of the Venetian Golden Age.
The public rooms boast artworks by many of the leading artists of the 17th and 18th century including Sebastiano Ricci, Nicolò Bambini, Pietro Longhi and Giambattista Tiepolo and the bedrooms are all beautifully and elegantly furnished. There is an excellent restaurant with an outdoor panoramic terrace on the Grand Canal facing the historic Rialto market and a rooftop terrace where drinks are served when the weather is fine.
On arrival there will be some free time for lunch and a rest, followed by a gentle walk for those who would like to come, exploring the area around the hotel. We will visit some lesser-known churches such as Santi Apostoli which boasts a beautiful Renaissance chapel designed by Mauro Codussi containing one of Tiepolo’s most beautiful altarpieces, as well as the nearby Ca’ d’Oro, one of the architectural gems of the Grand Canal, named after the gold decoration which once covered its rich Gothic façade. It was restored by Baron Giorgio Franchetti who left his impressive collection of art to the state upon his death, including works by Mantegna, Tintoretto and Titian, as well as impressive tapestries, furniture, bronzes and other objets d’art.
A private dinner with wine is included this evening. We have hired the magnificent ballroom of the Ca’ Sagredo, a space which extends to a height of two floors and is decorated with a series of illusionistic architectural frescoes by Gaspare Diziani. We will also enjoy a traditional aperitif in the palace's portego on the piano nobile, decorated with beautiful 18th-century landscapes and overlooking the Grand Canal. The evening will be accompanied by a classical harp recital given by Aurora Fabbian. It will be a unique and memorable experience to enjoy music and dinner in such a historic setting.
Day 2
Venice is divided into six districts or “sestieri” and today we spend the day strolling through the San Marco and Castello districts. We head for the nearby Rialto bridge and learn about the history of its construction, visiting the lesser-known church of San Salvatore which has two beautiful works by Titian. We then stroll towards Piazza San Marco to study the architectural development of the Piazza and the smaller Piazzetta next door, followed by a visit to the nearby church of San Zaccaria to see another great altarpiece by Giovanni Bellini, still in its original location. This serene and luminous painting was declared by John Ruskin as being one of "the best pictures in the world". After a break for coffee we will also see a fascinating painting cycle by Carpaccio in San Giovanni degli Schiavoni, the Dalmatian scuola or confraternity.
After lunch (arranged at a delightful local trattoria) you may like to return to the hotel or enjoy an afternoon at leisure. Alternatively, join Siân for a visit to the lesser-known collection in the Palazzo Querini Stampalia. Like a number of the palace museums now in the city, this has survived as a wonderful evocation of Venetian aristocratic life thanks to the generosity of the family who once lived there. Count Giovanni Querini was the last descendant of the Querini Stampalia family and left the ancient residence of his family to a foundation created in 1869. The palace contains beautiful collections of precious furniture, porcelain and sculptures as well as a fascinating series of paintings by Gabriel Bella, a contemporary of Canaletto whose works offer us a charming record of Venetian life in the 18th century, from formal state festivals and carnival festivities to more unusual pastimes such as bull-chasing, ice-skating, and bridge fighting!
This evening we enjoy an evening of opera (optional) at the Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto. The performance of The Barber of Seville will be accompanied by string trio and piano and takes place in a number of rooms in the palace, including one covered in frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo and another rich in stucco decoration and baroque furniture. The proximity of the artists creates an intimate setting in which the spectator feels very much part of the opera.
Day 3
An excursion to the mainland allows us to visit a number of exquisite Palladian villas, including one which is still privately owned. Palladio was perhaps the greatest Italian architect of the 16th century but whilst famous for his monumental Venetian churches was also much sought after by prominent and wealthy nobles who required country retreats on the mainland which would be impressive yet functional at the same time. The Palladian villa was the perfect solution which combined his classical erudition and knowledge of all’antica sources with all the practical requirements of modern rural living.
After our first private visit we will stop at Castelfranco to admire Giorgione's sublime altarpiece in the local cathedral, followed by a visit of the recently reopened Giorgione House Museum. This renowned yet shadowy painter composed a small number of beautiful, intimate and atmospheric paintings with lyrical overtones during the early 16th century before his untimely death aged little more than 30 years old. These works, commissioned by a newly emerging Venetian class interested in poetry and music, would transform the stylistic evolution of Venetian art.
Today lunch with wine is included at the glorious Villa Cipriani, which boasts beautiful panoramic views over the local countryside surrounding the medieval town of Asolo. Once owned by Robert Browning, it was later acquired by Giuseppe Cipriani of Harry's Bar fame and then, for a time, by the Guinness family.
After lunch we continue our Palladian theme with a visit to one of his most famous buildings, the Villa Maser, commissioned by the brothers Marcantonio and Daniele Barbaro. Decorated with frescoes by Paolo Veronese and sculptures by Alessandro Vittoria, it was a declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996. There will also be a chance to sample some of the award-winning prosecco produced by the estate.
Dinner tonight is independent – you may like to use the hotel’s excellent ground floor restaurant, l’Alcova.
Day 4
This morning we explore the neighbourhood of Cannaregio which offers a glimpse of the hidden Venice, less visited by tourists. It is home to the world’s oldest Jewish ghetto (the word ghèto is in fact a Venetian word) which is still a centre of Jewish life in the city.
We have arranged a private opening and tour of three of the area’s historic synagogues which were founded in the early 16th century. These are of great interest not only culturally but also architecturally – the design of the Scuola Grande Tedesca resembles the lavish design of 18th century Venetian theatres and the Spanish synagogue was renovated in 1635 by Baldessare Longhena, also the architect of Santa Maria della Salute and the Ca’ Rezzonico.
The area was also Tintoretto’s district and we will spend some time visiting the church of Madonna dell’Orto where he is buried and where several of his greatest canvases can be found.
Lunch is arranged for those who would like to join the group.
The afternoon join Siân for a guided tour of the Accademia museum where will will admire masterpieces by artists such as Bellini, Giorgione, Lotto and Guardi.
In the early evening we enjoy an exclusive, private after-hours opening of the Basilica of San Marco where we can admire its magnificent illuminated mosaics outside normal opening hours, after all the crowds have departed. Our tour includes the Pala d’Oro, a magnificent example of Byzantine workmanship made of hundreds of precious jewels and enamels, as well as areas which are not usually open such as the crypt, said to be the place where the bones of St. Mark are kept. Supper at the nearby Taverna La Fenice is arranged for those who would like to join the group.
Day 5
This morning is free for independent exploration: you may like to visit the evocative Rialto market opposite the hotel or simply enjoy a coffee on the beautiful terrace overlooking the Grand Canal.
We will leave by private water taxi at lunchtime to catch our mid-afternoon flight, arriving into London Gatwick at 5pm.